![]() (They are, for example, great as burger buns.) The same applies to fried eggs. I have long held the belief that English muffins are underrated as the bread for any sort of sandwich. ![]() She lets fillings shine, and is a good size and shape, and that’s about all there is to say about her. Also! The ideal size for a sausage patty. ![]() How could the result not be so fucking excellent when you are taking a breakfast sandwich and making it MORE BUTTERY? It was the sandwich the croissant wished it could be, with soft, flakey layers and a golden, crisp exterior that actually held up to the demands of the job. I don’t need a ring, I don’t need an audience, I will wear a dress made from paper napkins. And the bagel stood up beautifully to bacon, or a thick sausage patty, but less well to sautéed peppers or a thin swipe of tomato jam. For example, I did a few off-market tests in which I discovered I preferred the bagel sandwich with fried eggs over scrambled or poached. My main takeaway: the sturdier the components, the better. Plus, the Kaiser has a tougher crust, which helps those teeth get momentum for big bites, and a generally pleasant and neutral flavor. A much better bread ratio, perhaps because the crumb is airier than that of a brioche bun, so it felt less like mouthing a bunch of wall insulation. My real feelings? The brioche bun should quietly tiptoe back into the domain of triple-portion salami, arugula, and butter sandwiches, and stay there for a while. Brioche BunĪ solid “fine.” The ratio of bread-to-stuff was much too high for me, despite packing it with quite a bit of stuff. I generally do not love a croissant as a structural element, because either the croissant is technically great and flaky-in which case you want to enjoy it without the distraction of yolky globs-or the croissant is mediocre and soft, which means everything splooges out with the first bite. I used fried eggs (over easy) for all of these trials. Get your hot sauce, girls, and let’s dive in. What follows is my attempt to try as many bread choices and egg preparations as my tiny galley kitchen and my tiny galley mind could handle. I dreamt that a TikTok tortilla served me with a lawsuit. I lost sleep winnowing down the list of contenders. And which is also to say: this latest installment of Absolute Best Tests was perhaps the most difficult yet. Which is to say: There are infinite ways to jam an egg between a bready carapace. In Los Angeles, the upmarket breakfast sandwich has more recently had a long moment, with establishments like Eggslut spawning all sorts of brioche-bunned, three-sauced homage across the country. In the American South, it’s common to find an egg and sausage nestled between two halves of a warm biscuit, sometimes smothered with gravy. In New Jersey, a breakfast sandwich admirer will find their egg accompanied by a slice of Taylor ham, aka pork roll, aka please don’t slide into my DMs. Perhaps one of the most popular is the New York City bodega bacon, egg, and cheese on a roll. Stateside, riffs have been endless and boundless. He wrote in American Cookery that it may have been inspired by a version made by 19th century railroad workers, derived from egg foo young.Īnderson credits McDonald’s 1972 release of the Egg McMuffin with the proliferation of the American breakfast sandwich-eggs and meat, as opposed to marmite on toast, or labneh and cucumbers on flatbread, and so on-far and wide. Overseas, the United States met the Denver sandwich-a Denver omelet (ham, peppers, onions), in between pieces of bread-at least as early as 1907, or possibly earlier according to James Beard.
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